Dec 04, 2018 The first major obstacle in bonding rabbits is the gosh darn pesky hormones that cause them to be incredibly territorial and eager to mount anything of remotely spherical shape. I do not recommend even attempting to bond your rabbits until they are both spayed/neutered and given 4-6 weeks for the hormones to subside and balance. Download macOS Catalina for an all‑new entertainment experience. Your music, TV shows, movies, podcasts, and audiobooks will transfer automatically to the Apple Music, Apple TV, Apple Podcasts, and Apple Books apps where you'll still have access to your favorite iTunes features, including purchases, rentals, and imports.
House rabbits are social by nature. Rabbits can be deeply emotional creatures and often crave the companionship of their own kind. They form bonds that are so powerful that loss of a companion can cause depression and illness. Like any relationship, though, the bonding process itself can be slow and may take patience, time and a commitment from you to foster the relationship.
Before attempting an introduction of two rabbits, both must be spayed or neutered. Bonding is generally easier if both are !xed. You need to wait at least two weeks (preferably four weeks) after the surgery before attempting introductions. This allows time for the rabbit to heal and for hormones to balance. Males can stay fertile for up to 6 weeks after neutering and may still exhibit hormonal behavior in this time.
Rabbit are extremely territorial, and may exhibit behaviors such as territorial droppings, chinning, urinating, and aggressive behavior such as chasing, batting, and biting. Introductions should be done in a neutral space to minimize the occurrence of these behaviors. Rabbits are not quick to forget, so an initial !ght could hinder future bonding success.
A neutral space may include:
A pen in an area of the house your rabbit is not usually in. Gallerytrip mac os. Make the space small enough so you can control the interactions and make sure there are no small spaces a bunny could get trapped in if being attacked.
A bathroom the resident bunny has not been in before.
A bathtub.
If the bunnies show any signs of aggression, try:
• A laundry basket on top of a dryer that is on.
• The backseat of a moving car. The noise is slightly frightening to the bunnies and they may snuggle up and draw comfort from each other creating positive memories of each other. (They will associate the other rabbit with a sense of security.)
• The backseat of a moving car. The noise is slightly frightening to the bunnies and they may snuggle up and draw comfort from each other creating positive memories of each other. (They will associate the other rabbit with a sense of security.)
It is advised you wear thick gloves and a long-sleeved shirt for the initial bonding sessions in case a fight ensues. A squirt of water on the nose can often prevent an aggressive behavior if it is done before the act begins, but is usually not effective once a fight has broken out.
Initial 'bunny dates' may help to decide which companion will be best suited for your rabbit. Bunny dates last from a few minutes to 15 minutes a session, and your bunny is allowed to meet with 3-5 potential mates.
Bunnies, like humans have very different personalities. When two bunnies meet initially, several outcomes may occur:
• The most likely outcome is tentative friendship—they will keep an eye on each other and may approach and sniff but will not groom each other.
• Sometimes the date consists of one chasing/one running—make sure the one running does not start fighting and that he/she is not getting hurt. There may need to be a longer introduction period before they will fully bond and will need more work and attention to building the relationship.
• Sometimes, one rabbit humps the other. This is OK as long as the rabbit on the bottom (submissive) is accepting it. They are working out who's the boss. The tables may turn later in the same date. Make sure both buns noses can be seen so they are not biting in sensitive areas during the interaction.
• Less common, but possible is love at first sight. The bunnies may groom each other or cuddle with each other.
• Also uncommon, but possible is outright fighting. Separate the rabbits immediately to prevent them from hurting each other. This will be a harder relationship to build, but it can be done.
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Bonding can take anywhere from a few days to a year or more. Work with the rabbits daily for at least 15 minutes. The more often you work with them, the quicker the process may progress (usually!). If the rabbits have a bad experience, or if one of the rabbits is elderly or has health considerations, you may need to take it slower, or take some time off. Rabbits that are not fully bonded need to be kept separate when you are not with them. Once the rabbits have bonded, DO NOT separate them. If a rabbit needs to go to the vet, both need to go. If they are apart and one rabbit comes back with a different smell or change in health, they may reject each other and begin fighting.
Bonding Dos & Don'ts
DO—House the rabbits separately but close together. They will get used to seeing each other and each other's scent if they are close to each other. Make sure the cages are not close enough for them to be able to bite each other.
DO—Be prepared for this to take several months.
DO—Let your rabbit choose their partner. The bonding process will go easier and in the long run, your bun will have to share its space with this new bun. (Your mom can't choose your friends for you, its something you want to do on your own.) DO—Expect that there will be bumps and setbacks.
DO—Make the effort to think like a bunny. Is a bunny jealous that you are interacting with the new bun/resident bun? Is he/she mad you just gave his favorite toy to another bun? Is the bunny stressed and ready to stop for the day?
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DO—Interact with the buns, but give equal attention and provide a positive/relaxed atmosphere. Don't—Play favorites. At all. EVER!
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Don't—Expect love at first sight.
Don't—Hold a bonding session in the resident bunny's territory until after the bunnies can spend at least 30 minutes together in neutral space. Be prepared for the resident bunny to potentially be defensive or aggressive at first.
Don't—Try to bond if you have had a bad day—your emotions will transfer to the bunnies and can undo weeks of work.
Don't—Leave the bunnies unsupervised, even for a minute, until they are fully bonded.
Don't—Assume that because yesterday went well, today will, too. They are working through relationship/dominance/territory issues similar to those humans do during a dating process. Don't—End on a bad note, if at all possible.
Reference
House Rabbit Handbook—How to live with an urban rabbit by Marinell Harriman Available for purchase through MCRS, PETCO, and most local bookstores.
Now ideally you already have a bonded pair, however some people find themselves with just one bunny. It is so important that this bunny is matched and bonded to another bunny companion. Why?
Let's discuss the main reasons for bonding your rabbits:
1. Rabbits are a prey, herd species. This means they naturally live in large groups of their own kind, for proetction and safety. It is a built in desire for them to be able to communicate with other rabbits and to bond with them to help them feel safe and secure. Just as you would never see one lone sheep in a field, we should never be seeing one rabbit either.
2. Rabbits communicate with one another for a variety of reasons and this provides them mental and physical stimulation. In inhibiting this, often they can become destructive, bored and lonely.
3. Studies have shown that rabbits value rabbit companionship as their top priority and value this resource even more than food and space.
4. Unlike dogs, rabbits do not share their hierarchy system with humans and cannot fully integrate with another animal or human and bond with them. Although rabbits can co-habit with other species including us and show affection to other species, they cannot properly bond with them.
5. Studies show that domestic rabbits that are bonded live longer and healthier lives.
6. Once bonded, rabbits behaviour changes for the better and they can become calmer, more friendly and more confident. They become more active and show an increase in natural behaviours.
7. Rabbits hay consumption increases by around 70% once bonded. The more hay they eat, the happier and healthier they will be.
8. Rabbits will groom one another in places that we can't, inside the tear ducts and the ear canal which helps prevent ear and eye infections and abscesses.
FAQ's:
What if your rabbit has lived a long time on their own?
That is no reason not to have them bonded, they will still bond like any other rabbit will. Age, sex, breed and size does not matter when bonding so long as the rabbits are matched correctly based on temperament. They will always be happier once bonded. Also, if you have a bereaved bunny, the sooner you can have them bonded the better but they will always be able to be bonded again even if they lost their partner a long time ago.
Does my rabbit need to be neutered first?
Yes, absolutely. All rabbits must be neutered before bonding and a minimum time of 8 weeks post neuter must pass to allow their hormones to settle. This applies to both females and males.
'My rabbit seems/is happy on his own'...
There's no doubt that your rabbit, given a nice home, good diet and plenty of space can be happy however – they can always be happier. Your rabbit may still flop and binky, but they will still be lonely and would always choose to bond with another rabbit given the choice. Until you have seen your rabbit bonded, you cannot compare. Seeing them snuggled up and cuddling with a companion will make you ooh and aah and owners with bonded rabbits would never choose to go back to having one on their own.
'My rabbit lives in the house with me and I'm home a lot so they have me for company'..
As a human, you cannot communicate with your rabbit the way they would communicate together. You cannot groom them properly either. Rabbits are also most active while you are asleep so while you are sleeping, they are still very much alone.
'I have tried my rabbit with other rabbit/s and they didn't get on and hated each other/tried to kill each other'..
Yes, bonding can be ugly! It's not always fun or straightforward and it can be extremely stressful. However it is really important to understand rabbit language and communication between rabbits and what is normal and acceptable. Often things can look worse than they actually are. It's important that rabbits sort out their hierarchy together and this is the hardest part of bonding. However, if your rabbit is matched correctly to the right rabbit for them based on temperament and the bonding is done correctly, things should go relatively smoothly and straightforward. It may be that your rabbit wasn't matched correctly or that the bonding wasn't attempted correctly. It may be that your rabbit has behavioural issues that need worked on first before they can be bonded. This does not mean they can't be bonded. ALL rabbits can be bonded. If you have multiple rabbits that you can't get to bond it may be that you need to send them off to someone like ourselves to bond them for you.
'I don't have the space or money for two rabbits'..
In many countries it is illegal to have one rabbit on their own. It is one of the main welfare requirements for rabbits so this should be your focus and aim to be able to provide them with. 2 rabbits need the same amount of space as 1 rabbit. The only additional cost is another monthly insurance and annual vaccinations. If you adopt another rabbit from a rescue they will already be neutered, etc for you which is much cheaper than buying a rabbit and doing it yourself.
'How do I go about bonding my single rabbit?'
The easiest and most straightforward way to go about this is to contact a reputable rabbit rescue where they can help with bonding.
Here at Baby Blue Bee Bunnies, we match your bunny up to a suitable companion here at the rescue and we will bond them for you. That way, you aren't left stressed out with two single buns that you are struggling with. The rabbits will already be behaviourally assessed and neutered etc. You will also be heavily prioritised for bonding and given 24/7 support and after care advice for their lifetime. The focus here is on the right match, ensuring that rabbits are paired for a strong lifelong bond.
